I much prefer writing reviews about poor meals and bad service. Not through any sort of vindictive evilness, but I enjoy offering genuine feedback and giving restaurants the chance to improve. Establishments which offer a good meal are much harder to talk about with less opportunity for witty comments which entertain readers so much.So this is a straight up review. Gilmour’s is a good place.

A warm, friendly establishment off the Fulham Road, Gilmour’s is what British food is about. Interesting dishes with good produce. The open kitchen at the back of the dining area makes you feel part of the creativity. This is my second visit, and this time we were a group of 17 (a late Christmas party for staff at my father’s delicatessen a bit further down Fulham Road, Tray Gourmet). The staff coped admirably with the various demands which come with large groups.

Before I speak about the food, I’m going to mention a little something on the wine. The red was particularly good (Saint Etalon 2007 Merlot) and was good value at £18. Gilmour’s has a fantastic policy regarding their discretionary service charge and wine. Owner Christopher Gilmour says “Wine is another passion of mine and I hope you will agree that our wine list is modestly priced, and I have extended this great value to our 12.5% service charge which will never exceed £3.75 a bottle. In other words the service charge for a bottle of £30 wine will be the same as that of a £130 bottle.” For me this demonstrates a true passion for delivering affordable quality service.

Starters were good: A tasty Soused Mackrel with a baby gem, tomato and mint salad. The sweet/sour conflict was well balanced. Something was missing from the Beef Carpaccio. The capers providing potted saltiness could have been helped along by some parmesan shavings. 

I was slightly disappointed with my main course: Roast Chicken with tarragon, spring vegetable ragout and truffled cauliflower mash. Whilst well cooked, it was boring and didn’t dance on my palate. The truffle deliciousness was lost in the sourness of the cauliflower. My partner’s ribeye steak was perfect – mouth melting and perfectly rare. And my sister’s fishcakes were plentiful and jam packed with fish rather than the usual mashed potato.

If you’re a dessert person then I highly recommend the Honey and Lavender Crème Brulee (although maybe a little less honey and a bit more lavender to make it truly perfect). The Chocolate Marquis with Pistachio Cream was tastey but too dense.

My summary is that Gilmour’s is an honest, friendly place which cares about its customers, whether local or from afar. Some minor changes would bring this restaurant up to greatness. I’ll definitely be back though.

This restaurant was reviewed on Thursday 9th July 2009.