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Bland, stodgy, boring and uninteresting! A fair description of our culinary heritage? I think not! More Tea, Vicar? is a shameless defence of the British eating experience, and an exploration of its magnificent traditions and heritage. Does British food deserve the bad reputation it has on the international culinary circuit? Granted it’s not nouvelle cuisine (a.k.a. small portions, high price), intricate garnishes, or exotic aromatics. British food is traditional, homely, warming and comforting. It is versatile, practical and loyal. 

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The Anchor and Hope PDF Print E-mail
Monday, 22 June 2009
I was very excited about my visit to The Anchor and Hope as it came very recommended by shunafish . So what better than a romantic meal out with the other half on Friday night. Good food and amazing company surely can't fail to satisfy?

I had been warned that they didn't take reservations, and as I peered into the overflowing bar my fingers were tightly crossed for a table. And as luck would have it two seats were available immediately... on a table of six with two other couples. So much for the romantic meal.

The tightly packed dining room is gastropub classic with wooden tables and odd chairs and wine served in goblets (unless you buy the expensive stuff). For such a small dining area there were a lot of staff dashing around in what I'm hoping was organised chaos – although despite the numbers it was hard at times to grab someones attention.

As per usual I was taking sneaky peeks at other people's tables and food... probably very rude, but who cares. The menu isn't hugely varied, lots of meat and fish, but all the portions looked very healthy indeed.

So to the food.

Starters were a Radicchio and Saffron Risotto and Pigs Head Vinaigrette. “Pigs head?” I hear you cry. Well not a whole one. It was really just brawn. Served at room temperature the fat was tepid and unappetising. The risotto was more of an oily rice, not the creamy indulgence I was expecting. It was certainly stuffed with saffron though.

Mains were several notches up. Both the Half Lobster and Corn on the Cob and the Baked Wild Sea Trout with Beetroot and Samphire were glittering combinations of taste and colour. The sweet succulent lobster meat performing a little tango with the most amazing corn I've had for a long time – crunchy and sweet – all moulded together with melted butter. The cold sea trout dish produced a perfectly cooked fish with the tingling surprise of pickled cucumber and sweet beetroot.

But the hit of the evening had to be the dessert. Strawberry Tart. But not just any strawberry tart. The Strawberry Tart. Buttery melt in your mouth pastry encasing a moist hazelnut filling topped with juicy strawberries. You'll be pleased to know that I did share with my other half, but only a couple of fork-fulls and only because his cheese platter really wasn't up to much.

At £85 for two including a bottle of wine I found it a bit steep. This is certainly a restaurant to come as a group with excellent deals like a whole roast seabass or rib of beef for two or a seven hour lamb shoulder to share with 4 of your closest friends.

 

Food 3.5/5 – The Strawberry Tart gave the edge
Service 3/5 – A bit slow but very cheery
Environment 3/5 – Typical gastropub just small and tight.

The Anchor & Hope
36 The Cut
London, SE1 8LP

Tel: 020 7928 9898

Restaurant was reviewed on Friday 19th June 2009.

Anchor & Hope on Urbanspoon
 

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