My recent visit to Paris was a true revelation. It is well known that the French have a joy for food which is, I would suggest, unrivalled in the world. More importantly they know their meat.

Not just how to cook it to a rare perfection but also how to raise livestock, slaughter, butcher, sell and buy meat. Paris is stuffed full of traditional butchers who have a variety of cuts which no supermarket could rival. That said, French supermarkets carry a much wider range of cuts than their British counterparts, including what some might call the "cheaper cuts" - though these are often some of the tastiest.

So back to my revelation. I was taken to perhaps one of the most interesting concept restaurants to date. The building on the corner of rue Berger and rue des Prouvaires in Les Halles area of Paris is deceptive; the small frontage not doing justice to a rather vast interiour. Les Halles was the traditional meat market for Paris - now moved to just outside the city at Rengis. "Le Louchebem" is named after the slang for "butcher"; A strange slang, where all the words start with an L, used by the meat market butchers in Paris. "Le Louchebem" is all about meat!

Varieties and cuts to suit all palates, all accompanied by various selection of side vegetables (although I didn't find a seperate vegetable or vegetarian section on the menu). The star turn though is the "Rotisseur" - an all you can eat roisserie meat experience. Forget any preconceptions which you have about all you can eat - this is not the greasy slop found in Chinese "restaurants" across Britain. This is plate after plate of succulent, sweat meat - juices dripping as the various joints turn slowly on the rotisserie wall behind the open kitchen counter. The plate consists of roasted ham, beef and lamb - and as the menu is clear to point out, only served rare! The accompaniments were also delightful, if a bit of a side show (and a distraction) to the main attraction - the mash was smooth, creamy and rich, the french beans just crunchy and the roasted potatoes golden and crispy. And there was no skimping from the management - the waiters actively encouraged seconds, thirds, and more.

I only managed three plates, but that was enough to satisfy both my appetite and my need to beat the "all you can eat" system and eat more than I paid. At 20 Euros a head this really is a good deal with no compromise on meat or cooking quality.

And if you still have a little gap left for dessert, the rich, creamy creme brulee is highly recommended.

Toqs off to "Le Louchebem".


Le Louchebem - Restaurateur - Boucher
31, rue Berger (corner of rue des Prouvaires), 75001, Paris
Metro: Chatelet - Les Halles
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 12 99 (Reservations recommended)
Web: www.le-louchebem.fr